Wind wave modelling in shallow water: with application to the southern North Sea

Increased marine activities, particularly in areas of off-shore exploitation and coastal development, have created an urgent need for improved knowledge of wave conditions in the shallow near-shore regions. In this work, objectives have been made to investigate the effects of bottom friction, depth-induced wave breaking, and tidal motions on the wave evolution in shallow water, and to apply the wave model (WAM Cycle 4) to the Belgian coastal waters. Firstly, the effects of different bottom friction formulations on the energy balance equation were quantitatively investigated for fetch-limited s... Mehr ...